Nail Rehab

Soft Services

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Confession: I’m a rehabilitated nail biter. I was one my whole childhood and it was a hard habit to break. But after years of nervous picking, feeling shame for a habit I couldn’t kick, and wishing I had longer nail beds so I could emulate my friend’s nail color selections, I made a hard left and put my hands through some much-needed therapy.

Nail picking, or onychophagia (on-i-koh-fey-juh), can start because of visual factors like brittle or dry nails. In fact, the condition of one’s nails can contribute to the initiation of nail-picking behaviors and make the habit more difficult to break. It’s also a pattern that can be influenced by a variety of psychological, emotional, and environmental factors.

To learn more about how to kick this habit, I spoke with Los Angeles-based nail artist Stephanie Stone, who is known for her intricate designs and impressive clientele from brands like Chanel to celebrities like Charli XCX. Stone is an expert on nursing nails back to health as she’s had to implement numerous quick fixes on set when they need some extra love.

⁰¹Assess your routine

To start your nail recovery journey, take a look at the factors that are in your control and may be countering your efforts. Stone believes that you should prioritize your hands just as you would your face when it comes to rehabbing nails. They’re the second most exposed body part, battling sun exposure, harsh weather, and manual labor, so it’s important to take extra care in how you treat them. Below are some tips to implement into your everyday routine:

Wear gloves when doing household chores.

It's a low-effort way to protect your nails in your daily life.

Swap your current hand wash for a gentler, more hydrating formula

that doesn’t dry out your hands and nails. A Soft Services team tip is using Comfort Cleanse as a hand wash, since it cleanses effectively while also imparting hydration to skin.

@para_gavi

Apply sunscreen to your hands

You wouldn’t (or shouldn’t) leave the house without it on your face, and your hands aren’t an exception.

If you drive,

keep a pair of UV protection gloves

in your car to throw on before you hit the road.

⁰²Hydrate & nourish

When restoring your nail health, hydration is key.

Incorporating nourishing ingredients into your hand care routine will help support the overall health of your skin and strengthen nails to be more resilient.

In addition to a nourishing hand cream,

cuticle oil is a great preventative measure.

According to Stone: “The more hydrated your cuticles are, the less likely you are to get hangnails, which can lead to picking and bleeding.”

Bonus points: Opt for a hand cream with retinol, such as Soft Services’ Thearplush. This gold-standard vitamin A derivative increases skin cell turnover and boosts collagen production to reveal fresh, more youthful skin at the surface—certainly amplifying your cuticle and nail revival efforts. A common side effect of retinol can be an increase in dryness, so using it within a nourishing cream base will minimize this as your skin acclimates to the ingredient. Plus, it also helps further moisturize and renew cuticles.

⁰³Exfoliate

Speaking of cuticle maintenance, keeping a regular exfoliation practice will also help maintain your nail and cuticle health, and in turn, curb picking habits. According to Stone: “You don’t need to exfoliate your nails so much as the skin around your nails,” she says. “If you want to remove dead skin from your nails, use a light buffer and then immediately apply a nail strengthener followed by a cuticle oil.”

Additionally:

seek out exfoliating ingredients like lactic acid

to remove any dead skin buildup and hangnails, keeping cuticles tidy and maintained.

Soft Services

⁰⁴Don’t pick!

If you follow points 01 through 03, mazel! Your nails will likely be well on their way to restored strength and prime health. If you still have the urge to pick or bite, don’t fret. Old-fashioned methods like sour-tasting nails can help with the habit of biting itself, but may not be the end-all-be-all method to your nail woes. Here are some additional strategies suggested by Stone to help break the habit:

“When you go to pick, apply a cuticle oil (or hand cream) instead.”

“Keeping a nail file with you

to smooth out any jagged edges tempting you to pick will also make a world of difference. Plus, save the nippers for anything hanging.”

@octave_jewelry

Find a piece of understated jewelry and use it as a fidget spinner.

“I’ve recommended this to clients with chronic picking habits because you can casually flick the ring instead of hacking away at your skin.”

⁰⁵Go to the derm

If all else fails, you can see a dermatologist, who are not only in charge of skin health but are also nail experts. They’ll be able to professionally advise if there’s a more clinical approach needed to repair your nails. It’s important to ensure your overall health isn’t causing your brittle nails.

^ConclusionYou can do it!

In the quest for nail rehabilitation, finding products you love using and solutions that are easy to incorporate into your routine means you’re more likely to stay on track. Preventative and protective measures are both important parts of the process but “Consistency is what makes a lasting difference in your hand care,” Stone says. “Developing a hand care routine that is easily accessible and feasible for your lifestyle will greatly benefit you in the long run.”

So many of us pick or bite (I did!) and it’s a tough habit to break (it took me almost 18 years), but let’s remove any shame we carry if we struggle with either or both. “We want to break these cycles,” says Stone, “but shame is only going to cause more anxiety, which can often be the root of these habits to begin with.”

—Jayme Cyk
Beauty writer and editor based in Los Angeles, CA

Nail Rehab Toolkit

Theraplush

Comfort Cleanse

Bitter Nail Polish

Cuticle Oil

Rubber Gloves

UPF Driving Gloves

Fidget Jewelry

Glass Nail File

SPF